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UIAA Newsletter_5 July 2018: Preservation of Natural Rock, style=’font-size:11.5pt;font-family:”Georgia”,serif;color:black’>2018 UIAA Rock Climbing Festival Award, and More

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The UIAA newsletter.
5 July 2018
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The UIAA Newsletter. 5 July 2018

In Brief

The 2018 UIAA Respect the Mountains Series commences this weekend with two events taking place in Italy. The application process for the UIAA’s other annual core project in sustainability – the Mountain Protection Award – closed on 30 June with over 20 project submissions received from 17 countries. At both the 2018 Sustainable Summits Conference and Outdoor2018, the UIAA played a key role in discussions related to the future of the mountains. UIAA member federations, delegates and partners are informed that the Calling Notice for the 2018 UIAA General Assembly was published on 30 June. Registration opens next week.

Next Newsletter – Week of 23 July.
Key topics: 2018 UIAA Rock Climbing Festival Award, UIAA Safety Standards

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NATURAL ROCK FOR ADVENTURE CLIMBING:
FRESH CONCERNSAs part of its commitment to raising awareness about the importance of preserving natural rock and to reducing indiscriminate bolting, the UIAA is sharing an article from Norwegian climber Robert Caspersen concerning an expedition made in late 2017 with three friends to climb the high east face of Gessnertind (3020m) in Antarctica.

The article was brought to the UIAA’s attention by former UIAA Management Committee member and legendary mountaineer Doug Scott, who spearheaded the UIAA’s seminal paper on ‘UIAA Recommendations on the Preservation of Natural Rock for Adventure Climbing’ in 2014. The paper evaluated the history and appeal of different forms of rock climbing, and considered earlier attitudes to fixed gear. It also considered how the case for adventure climbing can be re-stated more effectively and offered guidance to UIAA member federations in developing countries on how to sustain the balance between sport and adventure climbing

“Thearticle written by Robert Caspersen is exceptionally inspiring and cannot fail, I am sure, to move people towards at least thinking of restricting the use of the bolt,” explains Scott. Full Story.

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LAUNCH:
2019 UIAA ICE CLIMBING WORLD TOUR CALENDARThe UIAA is delighted to confirm the calendar for the 2019 Ice Climbing World Tour. Comprising a comprehensive and impressive programme of events, the 2019 calendar is the biggest to date and includes six World Cup events, four European Cups, a World Championships, a World Combined Championships and a World Youth Championships. The World Tour will visit ten different countries on three continents and features two events taking place in major cities – Moscow and Denver. Full story.

Athletes, officials and member federations are informed that the Competition Regulations for the 2019 UIAA Ice Climbing World Tour are also available. Full story.

LATEST NEWS FROM
UIAA MEMBER FEDERATIONS & PARTNERSShare your news with the UIAA by emailing news

ALPINE CLUB OF CANADA
Mountain Science, Climate Change & Education
2018 State of the Mountains Report

ALPINE CLUB OF PAKISTAN
The Alpine Club of Pakistan have confirmed Mr. Abu Zafar Sadiq as President and Mr.Karar Haidri as Secretary

AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB
Lending Climbers A Stronger Voice

ASIAN ALPINE ASSOCIATES
Latest newsletter now available

BRITISH MOUNTAINEERING COUNCIL
Lynn Robinson becomes the BMC’s first-ever female president.

DEUTSCHER ALPENVEREIN, DAV
Climbing Safety Video Series Now Available

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2018 UIAA MOUNTAIN PROTECTION AWARD:
APPLICATION CLOSESThe UIAA Mountain Protection Commission confirms that as of 30 June, the application process for the 2018 UIAA Mountain Protection Award is now closed. The sixth edition of the Award has welcomed over 20 applicants from some 17 countries. The Award Assessment Team are currently reviewing all applications. Projects accepted for the 2018 Award will be contacted in due course. Showcased projects will be uploaded to the UIAA website during the month of July. The winning project will be announced at the 2018 UIAA General Assembly held in Ulaanbaatar, Mongolia on 6 October. Full story.
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UIAA SHAPING DISCUSSIONS
AT SUSTAINABLE SUMMITS AND OUTDOOR 2018 Two major international gatherings for the outdoor community took place in June 2018 with the UIAA represented, and leading discussions, at both events. First, the biennial Sustainable Summits Conference took place in Chamonix, France from 12-14 June where the three-day discussions focused on the future for the world’s high mountains. A week after the Sustainable Summits conference, the UIAA was represented at OutDoor, the world’s leading trade fair in the industry which took place in Friedrichshafen, Germany from 17-20 June. Full story.
RECENT ARTICLES

A reminder of some other recent articles published by the UIAA:

SAFETY:
Safety Standards / Support UIAA SafeCom Research:
Submit Examples of Climbing Anchor Corrosion

Safety Label Holder / Skylotec precautionary call for inspection check of Via Ferrata sets
MedCom / Medical Advice for Women Going to Altitude

SKILLS:
Alpine Series / What Weakens A Rope?
Alpine Series / Gear: Single & multi pitch check list

SUSTAINABILITY:
RTM / 2018 UIAA Respect the Mountains Series: Dates Announced

IN MEMORY

The UIAA is sad to hear about the recent passing of two pioneering figures in the world of climbing and mountaineering. Suk-Ha Hong, who died on 29 May, was an influential presence in Korean mountaineering. Among his legacies are the creation of Man and Mountain magazine and his role in the foundation of Asia’s Piolets d’Or. Suk-Ha Hong was awarded “Order of Civil Merit” by the Korean Government in 2008 for his devotion to mountaineering culture.

On 20 June, elite ice climber and French guide Stéphane Husson was involved in an accident in the Alps and died in hospital the following day. A 16-year old climber was killed in the same accident. Husson played a pivotal role in the development of competition ice climbing in France. Further details.

UPCOMING EVENTS
8 July
RESPECT THE MOUNTAINS
Passo della Focolaccia, Italy
8 July
RESPECT THE MOUNTAINS
Molise, Italy
22 July
RESPECT THE MOUNTAINS
Snowdonia National Park, Wales
23-30 July
UIAA YOUTH MOUNTAINEERING SCHOOL
Mount Kazbek, Georgia
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The UIAA was founded in 1932 and represents over 90 member associations in 68 countries. The organization’s mission is to promote the growth and protection of climbing and mountaineering worldwide, advance safe and ethical mountain practices and promote responsible access, culture and environmental protection.

The organization operates through the work of its commissions which make recommendations, set policy and advocate on behalf of the climbing and mountaineering community. The UIAA is recognized by the International Olympic Committee (IOC).

UIAA OFFICE
c/o Schweizer Alpen-Club SAC
Monbijoustrasse 61 Postfach CH-3000
Bern 14, Switzerland
Tel: +41 (0)31 370 1828news

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