UIAA Newsletter_5 July 2018: Preservation of Natural Rock, style=’font-size:11.5pt;font-family:”Georgia”,serif;color:black’>2018 UIAA Rock Climbing Festival Award, and More

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The UIAA newsletter.
5 July 2018
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The UIAA Newsletter. 5 July 2018

In Brief

The 2018 UIAA Respect the Mountains Series commences this weekend with two events taking place in Italy. The application process for the UIAA’s other annual core project in sustainability – the Mountain Protection Award – closed on 30 June with over 20 project submissions received from 17 countries. At both the 2018 Sustainable Summits Conference and Outdoor2018, the UIAA played a key role in discussions related to the future of the mountains. UIAA member federations, delegates and partners are informed that the Calling Notice for the 2018 UIAA General Assembly was published on 30 June. Registration opens next week.

Next Newsletter – Week of 23 July.
Key topics: 2018 UIAA Rock Climbing Festival Award, UIAA Safety Standards

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NATURAL ROCK FOR ADVENTURE CLIMBING:
FRESH CONCERNSAs part of its commitment to raising awareness about the importance of preserving natural rock and to reducing indiscriminate bolting, the UIAA is sharing an article from Norwegian climber Robert Caspersen concerning an expedition made in late 2017 with three friends to climb the high east face of Gessnertind (3020m) in Antarctica.

The article was brought to the UIAA’s attention by former UIAA Management Committee member and legendary mountaineer Doug Scott, who spearheaded the UIAA’s seminal paper on ‘UIAA Recommendations on the Preservation of Natural Rock for Adventure Climbing’ in 2014. The paper evaluated the history and appeal of different forms of rock climbing, and considered earlier attitudes to fixed gear. It also considered how the case for adventure climbing can be re-stated more effectively and offered guidance to UIAA member federations in developing countries on how to sustain the balance between sport and adventure climbing

“Thearticle written by Robert Caspersen is exceptionally inspiring and cannot fail, I am sure, to move people towards at least thinking of restricting the use of the bolt,” explains Scott. Full Story.

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LAUNCH:
2019 UIAA ICE CLIMBING WORLD TOUR CALENDARThe UIAA is delighted to confirm the calendar for the 2019 Ice Climbing World Tour. Comprising a comprehensive and impressive programme of events, the 2019 calendar is the biggest to date and includes six World Cup events, four European Cups, a World Championships, a World Combined Championships and a World Youth Championships. The World Tour will visit ten different countries on three continents and features two events taking place in major cities – Moscow and Denver. Full story.

Athletes, officials and member federations are informed that the Competition Regulations for the 2019 UIAA Ice Climbing World Tour are also available. Full story.

LATEST NEWS FROM
UIAA MEMBER FEDERATIONS & PARTNERSShare your news with the UIAA by emailing news

ALPINE CLUB OF CANADA
Mountain Science, Climate Change & Education
2018 State of the Mountains Report

ALPINE CLUB OF PAKISTAN
The Alpine Club of Pakistan have confirmed Mr. Abu Zafar Sadiq as President and Mr.Karar Haidri as Secretary

AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB
Lending Climbers A Stronger Voice

ASIAN ALPINE ASSOCIATES
Latest newsletter now available

BRITISH MOUNTAINEERING COUNCIL
Lynn Robinson becomes the BMC’s first-ever female president.

DEUTSCHER ALPENVEREIN, DAV
Climbing Safety Video Series Now Available

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2018 UIAA MOUNTAIN PROTECTION AWARD:
APPLICATION CLOSESThe UIAA Mountain Protection Commission confirms that as of 30 June, the application process for the 2018 UIAA Mountain Protection Award is now closed. The sixth edition of the Award has welcomed over 20 applicants from some 17 countries. The Award Assessment Team are currently reviewing all applications. Projects accepted for the 2018 Award will be contacted in due course. Showcased projects will be uploaded to the UIAA website during the month of July. The winning project will be announced at the 2018 UIAA General Assembly held in Ulaanbaatar, Mongolia on 6 October. Full story.
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UIAA SHAPING DISCUSSIONS
AT SUSTAINABLE SUMMITS AND OUTDOOR 2018 Two major international gatherings for the outdoor community took place in June 2018 with the UIAA represented, and leading discussions, at both events. First, the biennial Sustainable Summits Conference took place in Chamonix, France from 12-14 June where the three-day discussions focused on the future for the world’s high mountains. A week after the Sustainable Summits conference, the UIAA was represented at OutDoor, the world’s leading trade fair in the industry which took place in Friedrichshafen, Germany from 17-20 June. Full story.
RECENT ARTICLES

A reminder of some other recent articles published by the UIAA:

SAFETY:
Safety Standards / Support UIAA SafeCom Research:
Submit Examples of Climbing Anchor Corrosion

Safety Label Holder / Skylotec precautionary call for inspection check of Via Ferrata sets
MedCom / Medical Advice for Women Going to Altitude

SKILLS:
Alpine Series / What Weakens A Rope?
Alpine Series / Gear: Single & multi pitch check list

SUSTAINABILITY:
RTM / 2018 UIAA Respect the Mountains Series: Dates Announced

IN MEMORY

The UIAA is sad to hear about the recent passing of two pioneering figures in the world of climbing and mountaineering. Suk-Ha Hong, who died on 29 May, was an influential presence in Korean mountaineering. Among his legacies are the creation of Man and Mountain magazine and his role in the foundation of Asia’s Piolets d’Or. Suk-Ha Hong was awarded “Order of Civil Merit” by the Korean Government in 2008 for his devotion to mountaineering culture.

On 20 June, elite ice climber and French guide Stéphane Husson was involved in an accident in the Alps and died in hospital the following day. A 16-year old climber was killed in the same accident. Husson played a pivotal role in the development of competition ice climbing in France. Further details.

UPCOMING EVENTS
8 July
RESPECT THE MOUNTAINS
Passo della Focolaccia, Italy
8 July
RESPECT THE MOUNTAINS
Molise, Italy
22 July
RESPECT THE MOUNTAINS
Snowdonia National Park, Wales
23-30 July
UIAA YOUTH MOUNTAINEERING SCHOOL
Mount Kazbek, Georgia
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The UIAA was founded in 1932 and represents over 90 member associations in 68 countries. The organization’s mission is to promote the growth and protection of climbing and mountaineering worldwide, advance safe and ethical mountain practices and promote responsible access, culture and environmental protection.

The organization operates through the work of its commissions which make recommendations, set policy and advocate on behalf of the climbing and mountaineering community. The UIAA is recognized by the International Olympic Committee (IOC).

UIAA OFFICE
c/o Schweizer Alpen-Club SAC
Monbijoustrasse 61 Postfach CH-3000
Bern 14, Switzerland
Tel: +41 (0)31 370 1828news

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February 2018 UIAA Newsletter, Please Subscriber to keep current in the Mountains!

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The UIAA newsletter. February 2018
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The UIAA Newsletter. February 2018.

In Brief

The UIAA Alpine Summer Skills guide is now available worldwide as a digital download. In the field of mountain safety, the UIAA and the Indian Mountaineering Foundation (IMF) publish recommendations related to The Chadar Trek. The use of portable hyperbaric chambers is the subject of the UIAA’s latest medical advice profile. In Asia, the reputation of the UIAA Safety Label continues to develop in an rapidly expanding market. The 2018 UIAA Ice Climbing season concludes this weekend in Kirov, Russia following a busy season of World and European Cup events. Newsletter subscribers have the opportunity to enter a competition to win a signed copy of Doug Scott’s latest book – The Ogre. The most recent member association to join the UIAA – Malta Climbing Club – comes under the spotlight. The 2018 UIAA Mountain Protection Award opens in late March coinciding with a special ceremony to commemorate 2017 winner Mount Everest Biogas Project (MEBP).

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ALPINE SUMMER SKILLS GUIDE
AVAILABLE TO PURCHASE AS DIGITAL DOWNLOADThe UIAA Alpine Skills Summer guide was first published in 2015. Produced in collaboration with the Petzl Foundation, the guide and has been well received worldwide and is currently available in five languages. To mark the launch of a digital version of the publication, the UIAA is running a series of articles from the guide designed to help hikers, climbers and mountaineers develop their skills and knowledge of the mountain environment.

The guide was developed specifically as a reference document for trip leaders and instructors of club and federations within the UIAA – an aide memoire for climbers and mountaineers who attend training courses delivered by instructors and guides who have gained qualifications accredited by the UIAA. Now open to the wider climbing and mountaineering world, the handbook’s four modules focus primarily on summer activities. Full story here

The digital edition of Alpine Skills: Summer, a downloadable application which permits free updates to content, can be purchased here.

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2018 UIAA MOUNTAIN PROTECTION AWARD
APPLICATION OPENS ON 24 MARCHApplication for the 2018 UIAA Mountain Protection Award will open immediately after a special presentation is held in Kathmandu, Nepal for Mount Everest Biogas Project (MEBP) winner of the 2017 Award. A dedicated press conference will also be held in Nepal to showcase the Award and will feature representatives from the MEBP and the 2015 winner KTK-BELT Studio. The press conference coincides with the UIAA Management Committee meeting, held from 23-24 March. Details on the press conference, and how to apply for the 2018 Award, will be available shortly.
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UIAA ICE CLIMBING WORLD TOUR

SEASON FINALE

An enthralling 2018 UIAA Ice Climbing World Tour, partnered by The North Face Korea, concludes in Kirov, Russia this weekend with the final act of a dramatic season. The quest to be World Tour champion across both the male and female lead and speed competitions is still wide open. A preview of the season finale will be available to our ice climbing news subscribers tomorrow. Livestreaming will be available on the UIAA Facebook, Twitter and YouTube channels, on the Olympic Channel, and on partner channel EXTREME. To subscribe to ice climbing news please click here.

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PHOTO STORY

An inspirational image of UIAA Honorary Member Jordi Pons Sanginés, 85 years old, ice climbing on Pedraforca (2,506m) in the Pyrenees. The area is a noted paradise for rock climbing, with limestone walls up to 800m high. In the winter several ice falls form, making this spot – some 150 km from Barcelona – a perfect location for ice climbing training.Full picture on our Facebook page.

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THE CHADAR TREK:
ESSENTIAL SAFETY ADVICEIncreasingly popular as a trekking destination among both Indian and international adventurers and tourists, the Chadar Trek, an ice passage across a fast flowing river in the Zanskar region of Ladakh, is also a route which presents a number of safety concerns.

With the aim of providing anyone planning on crossing this magnificent ‘ice highway’ with greater safety information, the UIAA Training Panel, with the support of the Indian Mountaineering Foundation (IMF), has provided the following information related to the prevention of accidents and dealing with unforeseen situations. This advice is also available on the IMF website. Full story here.

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MALTA
AT THE CROSSROADS OF THE MEDITERRANEANAt the 2017 UIAA General Assembly, the International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation welcomed its latest member. With the election of the Malta Climbing Club (MCC) as full member, the UIAA now represents 91 member associations from 68 countries.

The MCC was set up in 2010, a time when in Malta there was no truly representative climbing organisation. “It was felt that the sport needed a structure which in addition to promoting the sport locally, would also work towards providing local climbers with the support and services that climbers now often take for granted in their own countries all over the world,” explains the federation’s President Simon Alden. Full story here.

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MORE FROM THE UIAA NEWSROOM

At a series of meetings and tradeshows in China, the UIAA Safety team discuss the promotion and development of the UIAA Safety Label and Standards in Asia. A guide on when, and how, to use portable hyperbaric chambers is the topic of the latest UIAA MedCom article. Rock Climbing Festival organisers from Central and South America are invited to apply for the 2018 UIAA Rock Climbing Awards, with cash prizes of up to 5,000 CHF on offer. Registration for UIAA Youth Events in Fontainebleau, France and Iran is open.

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UPCOMING EVENTS
2-4 March
ICE CLIMBING – WORLD CUP
Kirov, Russia
23-24 March
UIAA MANAGEMENT COMMITTEE MEETINGS
Kathmandu, Nepal
23-24 March
UIAA MOUNTAIN PROTECTION AWARD PRESS CONFERENCE
Kathmandu, Nepal
The UIAA was founded in 1932 and has 91 member associations in 68 countries representing about 3 million climbers and mountaineers. The organization’s mission is to promote the growth and protection of climbing and mountaineering worldwide, advance safe and ethical mountain practices and promote responsible access, culture and environmental protection.

The organization operates through the work of its commissions which make recommendations, set policy and advocate on behalf of the climbing and mountaineering community. The UIAA is recognized by the International Olympic Committee (IOC).

UIAA OFFICE
c/o Schweizer Alpen-Club SAC
Monbijoustrasse 61 Postfach CH-3000
Bern 14, Switzerland
Tel: +41 (0)31 370 1828news

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2018 UIAA Newsletter

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The UIAA newsletter. January 2018
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The UIAA Newsletter. January 2018.

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Welcome to the first UIAA monthly newsletter of 2018

Recent international trade shows have provided the UIAA with the opportunity to discuss important mountain safety and sustainability topics with the outdoor community. The calendar of Global Youth Events is taking shape. The Series provides opportunities for young climbers from across the world to meet and develop their skills. Eye issues in expeditions is the focus of this month’s UIAA MedCom advice article while the insight of an experienced mountain rescuer features as the latest entry in our Passion for the Mountains series. From the UIAA archives, we explore the creation of the list of 3,000m Pyrenees peaks. UIAA-supported charity Climbers Against Cancer make a significant donation during the UIAA Ice Climbing World Cup event in Saas-Fee while recent changes in the UIAA Court come under the spotlight. Record audiences tune in for the start of the 2018 UIAA Ice Climbing season.

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DEALING WITH EYE PROBLEMS IN EXPEDITIONS
LATEST UIAA MEDCOM ARTICLEVisual loss in the wilderness setting is potentially fatal. Firstly it may be a warning sign of a serious systemic problem and secondly the patient may lose their functional independence and ability to respond to objective danger. The issues discussed in the UIAA MedCom paper #20, Eye Problems in Expeditions (available in English, Czech, German, Italian, Japanese and Persian) fall broadly into two categories, those that are unique to the high altitude setting and those that could happen anywhere but require treatment to protect vision when standard ophthalmological care is unavailable. Full story here
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UIAA ICE CLIMBING WORLD TOUR
FOLLOW THE LATEST NEWSThe 2018 UIAA Ice Climbing season is well underway with two World Cup events, a World Youth Championships and three European Cups having already taken place. The Series heads to Asia over the next two weekends with World Cup competitions in Hohhot (China) and Cheongsong (South Korea). This latter event will provide the UIAA with the opportunity to showcase the sport in the host country of the upcoming Olympic Winter Games. Record audiences have tuned in to watch the first two World Cup events through the UIAA’s livestreaming platforms and on the Olympic Channel and EXTREME. To subscribe to ice climbing-related news please click here.
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UIAA COURT
AT THE SERVICE OF UIAA MEMBERSDuring the 2017 UIAA General Assembly, a new era was heralded for the UIAA Court. Pierre Humblet, already a Court member, succeeded Bettina Geisseler as Court President and was joined by three new elected delegates in Denis Poncelin, Franz Stämpfli and Marco del Zotto. The UIAA Court representatives all have a strong professional background in various aspects of law and of the mountaineering world.Full story here
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CLIMBERS AGAINST CANCER
DONATION TO SWISS CANCER RESEARCH FOUNDATIONOn 20 January, representatives of the UIAA were honoured to organise a special ceremony ahead of the Lead Finals at the 2018 UIAA Ice Climbing World Cup in Saas-Fee, Switzerland. During the ceremony, the Swiss Cancer Research Foundation were presented with a donation of £25,000 by Climbers Against Cancer (CAC). CAC was created by the late John Ellison. Full story here
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PASSION FOR THE MOUNTAINS
PERSPECTIVE OF A MOUNTAIN RESCURERJason Williams’ skills and experience cover a wide range of mountain rescue sectors. He is a nationally-registered paramedic and obtained his Mountain Emergency Medicine and Rescue Diploma under the shadow of the Matterhorn in the Alpine Rescue Centre, Zermatt. Today, he is Director of the International Mountain Medicine Center at the University of New Mexico where he oversees all Austere, Wilderness, and Mountain Medicine programmes. He has rock climbed all over the world but admits nothing beats ‘being perched on a granite cliff face in my hometown’s local Sandia mountains with my life-long climbing partner/wife.’ Here is Jason’s story. Full story here.
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WATCH:
2017 UIAA CLIMBING FILM OF THE YEARThe UIAA has awarded a Best Climbing Film prize at the Trento Film Festival for the past three years. The most recent winner – a 12-minute documentary featured the 2016 expedition to the Himalayas of Nepal led by David Lama together with Austrian alpinists Hansjörg Auer and Alex Blümel. The film charts the team in their feelings of fatigue, anxiety, exposure and ordeal during their five weeks attempting one of the world’s greatest, unsolved puzzles of alpinism: The unclimbed south-east ridge of Annapurna III (at 7,555m, the 42nd highest mountain in the world). The film is available to view by clicking above.
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FROM THE ARCHIVES:
EXPLORING THE 3,000M PYRENEES PEAKSThroughout its near 86 years of history, the UIAA has led a number of pioneering achievements in the world of climbing and mountaineering. From the creation of its Safety Label and Safety Standards in the 1960s through several groundbreaking ethical declarations over the course of the following decades, its international standards for rock climbing grades and role at the forefront of mountain protection, the UIAA has always worked with the interest of mountaineers and the mountain environment at its core. In celebrating the heritage of the UIAA, this Series takes us through the UIAA archives to share some of the stories from the federation’s history. This first abridged article is dedicated to the publication of the Official List of UIAA 3,000m peaks of the Pyrenees in December 1995. It was first published in UIAA Bulletin 152. Full story here.
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MORE FROM THE UIAA NEWSROOM

Mountain safety and sustainability were among the topics covered at recent ISPO Trade Shows in Beijing and Munich. A full report will be available in the coming days. UIAA Safety Commission President Amit Chowdhury also addressed the subject of the UIAA Safety Label at a recent conference in New Delhi. At the close of 2017, the winners of the 12th edition of Asia’s Piolets d’Or were announced.

As revealed in a dedicated International Mountain Day communication, the UIAA and IFMGA (International Federation of Mountain Guides Associations) formalised their willingness to collaborate by signing a Memorandum of Understanding to exhibit their commitment to collaborating on environmental matters, such as the development and review of environmental and sustainability guidelines and events to address waste and pollution management in mountaineering. To mark International Mountain Day, the Alpine Club of Canada (ACC) opened up free access to its 110-year archive of the Canadian Alpine Journal.

The UIAA Youth Commission has developed the calendar of 2018 Global Youth Series events with meets in France, Italy and Iran already confirmed. Registration details can be found here.

Centro Cultural de Montaña, one of the nominated projects in the 2016 UIAA Mountain Protection Award shares a progress report from Peru. At the end of January, the world of climbing and mountaineering paid tribute to Elizabeth Hawley.

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UPCOMING EVENTS
2-4 February
ICE CLIMBING – WORLD CUP
Hohhot, China
9-11 February
ICE CLIMBING – WORLD CUP
Cheongsong, South Korea
24-25 February
ICE CLIMBING – EUROPEAN CUP
Oulu, Finland
23-24 March
UIAA MANAGEMENT COMMITTEE MEETINGS
Kathmandu, Nepal
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The UIAA was founded in 1932 and has 91 member associations in 68 countries representing about 3 million climbers and mountaineers. The organization’s mission is to promote the growth and protection of climbing and mountaineering worldwide, advance safe and ethical mountain practices and promote responsible access, culture and environmental protection.

The organization operates through the work of its commissions which make recommendations, set policy and advocate on behalf of the climbing and mountaineering community. The UIAA is recognized by the International Olympic Committee (IOC).

UIAA OFFICE
c/o Schweizer Alpen-Club SAC
Monbijoustrasse 61 Postfach CH-3000
Bern 14, Switzerland
Tel: +41 (0)31 370 1828news

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UIAA Newsletter_December 2017

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The UIAA newsletter. December 2017
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The UIAA. Newsletter. December 2017.
Welcome to the latest UIAA newsletter.

During the month of November, the UIAA played a leading role in mountain sustainability discussions at both the International Federation Forum in Lausanne and in Bonn during the 23rd United Nations Framework Convention on Climate Change (UNFCCC) – COP23. Ahead of 11 December’s International Mountain Day (IMD) titled ‘Mountains under Pressure: climate, hunger, migration’, the UIAA invites its member federations to share news of their IMD activities with news. The UIAA Ice Climbing season starts this weekend as the countdown to January’s World Cup series gains momentum. Meanwhile, application for the 2018 UIAA Rock Climbing awards is open and the UIAA MedCom shares advice for gap year and charity-event travellers.
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INTERNATIONAL FEDERATION FORUM
UIAA’S INTEGRAL ROLE IN SUSTAINABILITY DISCUSSIONSOn 9 November, the UIAA took part in a panel discussion at Sport Accord’s International Federation Forum (IF) in Lausanne, Switzerland discussing the relationship between sport and biodiversity and the role of the sporting community. The theme of the three day conference was the International Federations’ Impact In Leading The Way To Towards A Sustainability Agenda. The IF Forum programme is a collaboration between the International Olympic Committee (IOC), the Global Association of International Sport Federations (GAISF), the Association of Summer International Federations (ASOIF), the Association of Winter Olympic Federations (AIOWF),the Association of the IOC Recognized International Sports Federations (ARISF), AIMS (Alliance of Independent Members of SportAccord) and Associate Members. Full story here
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2018 UIAA ROCK CLIMBING FESTIVAL AWARD
APPLICATION OPEN

The international rock climbing community is informed that application for the 2018 UAA Rock Climbing Festival Award is now open. The annual Award was created in 2015 and is granted to the festival which best demonstrates a commitment to safety, sustainability and the development of rock climbing as a sport. The chosen festival is selected from a shortlist of applicants and chosen by the UIAA Rock Climbing Working Group. To date, Award winners have come from Africa (South Africa, 2015), Europe (Greece, 2016) and North America (USA, 2017). Please note, for 2018 the UIAA is inviting applications from festivals held in South America. Full story here.

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FEDME’S MOUNTAIN SAFETY COMMITMENT
SPANISH FEDERATION MAKING IMPRESSIVE STRIDESOver last few years, FEDME (Federación Española de Deportes de Montaña y Escalada), a full UIAA member, has reinforced its commitment to mountain safety, introducing a number of innovative and extensive measures to expand knowledge and consciousness about mountain safety on national level. One of their recent successes saw the publication of a detailed report about tests carried out on anchors in the marine environment. Here is their story.Full story here.
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In collaboration with Mountain Partnership, the UIAA took part in a side event discussion during COP23, titled “Implementing the 2030 Agenda & Paris Agreement in mountains: building a Framework for Action” during COP23. A video replay of the side panel discussion is embedded (starting at 7:15.00)

Organized by Mountain Partnership, the Government of Kyrgyzstan and the UIAA, the panel explored common challenges and solutions for addressing climate change impacts in mountains during the event, supporting concrete actions, putting in place long-lasting processes and establishing policies that strengthen the resilience of mountain peoples and environments. The UIAA was represented by Mountain Protection Commission delegate Joop Spijker (NKBC, Netherlands). He addressed the subject of mountaineering and climate change. UIAA Honorary Member Ang Tshering Sherpa (NMA, Nepal) also took part introducing ‘Community Experience of the Climate Change in the Himalayas and Solutions’.

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2018 UIAA ICE CLIMBING SEASON
IMPORTANT UPDATES

The first event of the new UIAA Ice Climbing season starts this weekend in Domzale (Slovenia), a perfect opportunity for young athletes to develop their skills and senior campaigners to prepare for the UIAA Ice Climbing World Tour in January.

The following links provide useful information about the 2018 season.
Latest Updates – including final calendar
A guide to the European Cups
Athletes’ Handbook
Rules & Regulations
UIAA & Ice Climbing

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HOW TO CHECK THE QUALITY OF A COMMERCIALLY ORGANISED TREK OR EXPEDITION
LATEST UIAA MEDCOM ADVICE

This, the sixth article in the UIAA’s series dedicated to high-altitude medical advice, has a very clear target audience, principally trekking or expedition company operators and their potential clients, notably those on gap years, round the world tickets or taking part in charity events.

As the number of mountaineers who are joining organised treks or expeditions continues to increase, so does the incidence of altitude-related diseases. Technically simple high altitude treks and peaks with easy access such as Kilimanjaro, Aconcagua, or the Everest trek (with fly-in to Lukla) are still potentially dangerous because of the rapid ascent profile undertaken by many trekkers and/or offered by numerous trekking companies. Full story here.

FROM THE UIAA NEWSROOM

Following on from October’s UIAA General Assembly, the UIAA Access Commission led a mountain workshop in Tehran. Angelika Rainer, one of the stars of the UIAA Ice Climbing World Tour recently made history. Hohhot is confirmed as the venue for the Chinese leg of the 2018 UIAA Ice Climbing World Tour. Registration for two 2018 UIAA youth camps in France – part of the Global Youth Summit series – is now open.

UPCOMING EVENTS
2 December
ICE CLIMBING – EUROPEAN CUP
Domzale, Slovenia
9 December
ICE CLIMBING – EUROPEAN CUP
Bratislava, Slovakia
11 December
INTERNATIONAL MOUNTAIN DAY
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The UIAA was founded in 1932 and has 92 member associations in 68 countries representing about 3 million climbers and mountaineers. The organization’s mission is to promote the growth and protection of climbing and mountaineering worldwide, advance safe and ethical mountain practices and promote responsible access, culture and environmental protection.

The organization operates through the work of its commissions which make recommendations, set policy and advocate on behalf of the climbing and mountaineering community. The UIAA is recognized by the International Olympic Committee (IOC).

You received this message as a subscriber to the UIAA monthly newsletter.

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Mount Everest Biogas Project wins UIAA Mountain Protection Award

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UIAA News Release.
22, October 2017
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UIAA MOUNTAIN PROTECTION AWARD WINNER
MOUNT EVEREST BIOGAS PROJECT

HEALING THE HUMAN IMPACT ON EVEREST

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Mount Everest Biogas Project was announced as the overall winner of the 2017 UIAA Mountain Protection Award during the UIAA General Assembly in Shiraz on Saturday 21 October.

The United States-based project is a volunteer-run, non-profit organization that has designed an environmentally sustainable solution to the impact of human waste on Mt. Everest and other high altitude locations. The Mount Everest Biogas Project (MEBP) is the fifth winner of the annual Award joining projects from Ethiopia, Tajikistan, Nepal and France.

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“The Mount Everest Biogas Project is a deserving winner of the Award,” explained UIAA Mountain Protection Commission President Dr Carolina Adler. “Waste in the mountains is a real problem that calls for implementation of solutions to address and test it under often very challenging environmental and social conditions.”

Stephen Goodwin, member of the UIAA Mountain Protection Commission, a vice-president of the Alpine Club (UK), and one of the Award assessors, added: “The Mount Everest Biogas Project project perfectly meets the aims of our Commission in that it is clearing up the waste of mountaineers and trekkers in an iconic location. There are multiple benefits for the “downstream” Sherpa population (notably less polluted water) and providing the project proves a success this technology can be applied to other high altitude mountain locations where climbers and/or trekkers have created a waste disposal problem.”

For the Award winners themselves, this is recognition for seven years of intense work and development towards helping resolve the major issue of ‘what to do with human waste in an extreme environment’. Garry Porter, one of the project’s co-founders, explains the potential benefits of winning the Award: “The Mountain Protection Award is a huge morale boost to our volunteer team members because it acknowledges their efforts in addressing a solution to the issue of human waste in mountains. The prestige of an endorsement by the UIAA will provide a major boost to our fundraising effort.”

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Video: Garry Porter, Mount Everest Biogas Project on winning the Award

MEBP: PROJECT BACKGROUND

Mt. Everest boasts a massive climbing industry, with hundreds of climbers making the trip up the Khumbu Valley each year. This tourism, which has led to significant financial gain for the Nepalese, has also left a trail of human waste that has given way to environmental and public health concerns.

MEBP proposes to use an anaerobic biogas digester to treat the human waste, and outlines the project management solution to do so. The biogas digester will eliminate dumping of solid human waste at Gorak Shep and destroy pathogenic fecal coliforms that threaten the health of the local communities – lessening the impact of the tourism industry on a mountain that is sacred to the Nepalese. Initiated in 2010 in affiliation with Engineers without Borders and Architects without Borders, the MEBP system technology has been designed and tested and the team has brought the project to construction-ready. Groundbreaking is planned for spring 2018 and an operational date slated for winter 2019.

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“We have strong support from the Nepalese organizations along with the Gorak Shep tea house owners,” adds Porter in relation to the project’s next steps. “Our engineering and architectural design is sound: and we have high confidence in it. It is now time to put theory to test.”

Each year, thousands of climbers and support staff populate Everest Base Camp for several months during the climbing seasons, producing approximately 12,000 kg of solid human waste. In 1991, the Sagarmatha Pollution Control Committee (“SPCC”), was created with the responsibility for protecting the environment of Mt. Everest. Since then, SPCC has developed waste management strategies for the removal and disposal of human trash. However, there has been no viable solution of how to deal with human waste. The current practice is to pack it down to the nearest teahouse village of Gorak Shep from base camp in barrels and dump the waste into open pits, just above the flow of the Khumbu Glacier that feeds the lower valley. The untreated waste in these unlined pits poses a danger both to the environment and to the public health of the Sherpa people who live in the region.

The Mt. Everest Biogas Project will address this environmental and health hazard in a sustainable manner and serve as a model for other regions that must deal with similar waste problems at high-altitude, regardless if it is caused by climbers or local communities. When implemented, MEBP will: eliminate the dumping of solid human waste at the teahouse village of Gorak Shep; reduce reliance on burning wood or yak dung for heating and the resultant respiratory and ocular health risks; reduce deforestation of the areas limited wood resources; and reduce risk of water contamination by fecal coliform. The system will convert waste into methane, a renewable natural gas, and a reduced pathogen effluent.

With funds raised through the MEBP, this project will build the first operating biogas digester in a cold climate. Once the biogas digester is established and running in the Khumbu valley, the design will be made available to the public so that other similar mountain climates in need of a sustainable waste management system can use this design in their own replications.

“The fact that this is an all volunteer design team compounded the challenge,” explains Porter. “Everyone on the team believes that they can make a difference, but they all have a “real life”: a demanding job, family and friends and a life outside of work. My previous experience in program management did not prepare me for the necessity of nudging, coaxing and sometimes pleading to keep the project moving forward. And yet, some of these same volunteers have spent seven years on the project. We could not have done it without their time and talent.”

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This human element of teamwork and commitment has been crucial to the project’s success and Porter’s advice for aspiring projects is to: “Find the best people who truly believe in what you are doing and never ever give up. Provide the vision of what you want to achieve and let the team members use their talents to achieve it. There will be many obstacles along the way, but the people you meet will all share the same vision. The mountains with which our planet has been blessed must be protected and preserved.”

Further details on the MEBP can be found both on the dedicated nominee page and on the official project website.

The UIAA thanks the MP Award and Assessment Team for their commitment and expertise throughout the course of the 2017 Award.

Application for the 2018 UIAA Mountain Protection Award opens in March 2018.

* All images and video courtesy Mount Everest Biogas Project

22 NOMINEES: 2017 UIAA MOUNTAIN PROTECTION AWARD

Argentina: Mujer Montaña
Mountains for Life; Cordillera Blanca, Our Ecological Footprint

Argentina: Project Aconcagua
Implementation of human waste disposal measures at base and high altitude camps

Austria: Alpine Pearls
Supporting environmentally friendly travel

Azerbaijan: FAIREX
Less In, More Out

Cambodia: Wildlife Alliance
Community-based ecotourism in the Cardamon Mountain Range, Cambodia

Colombia: Fundación Edenes de Colombia
Acceso a paraísos de Colombia (Access to Colombia’s paradises)

Colombia: Project Cordillera
Connecting adventure tourism with high mountain communities and local efforts to protect the environment

Croatia: Zagreb Speleological Union
Clean underground

International: Biosphere Expeditions
Mountain protection worldwide through citizen science and volunteering

Iran: I.R Iran Mountaineering & Sport Climbing Federation
Waste Management, Education Mountaineers and Cultural Affairs in Damavand

Ireland: Help the Hills
Tallaght: ‘Gateway to the Dublin Mountains’

Italy: Fondation Grand Paradis
I.T.E.R – Imaginer Un Transport Efficace et Responsable

Italy: Giroparchi
Discovery journey of the areas of the Gran Paradiso and Mont Avic parks

Italy: Paraloup
La Montagna che Rinasce (The Reborn mountain)

Italy: Rê.V.E. – Grand Paradis
A network of electric vehicles

Italy/Philippines: La Venta Esplorazioni Geografiche
Support for sustainable eco-tourism in Puerto Princesa underground river (Palawan, Philippines)

Latin America: Acceso PanAM
Managing human waste in advance base camps in Patagonia

Lebanon: Mount Zayan
Environmental education and accessible trails for eco-tourists

United Kingdom: Community Action Nepal
Post-earthquake recover programme in Nepalese mountain communities

United States: Clean Climbing on Denali
The removal of all waste

United States: Mount Everest Biogas Project
Environmentally sustainable solution to the impact of human waste on Mount Everest and beyond

United States: Wilderness Rock Climbing Indicators and Climbing Management Implications
Health of the climbing system as a part of wilderness character in National Park Wilderness

Further details: Mountain Protection Award
Contact: mountainprotection

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2017 UIAA MOUNTAIN PROTECTION AWARD PAST WINNERS

2013 – Menz-Guassa Community Conservation Area, Ethiopia
2014 – Pamir Horse Adventure, Tajikistan
2015 – KTK-BELT Studio, Nepal
2016 – Mountain Wilderness, France
2017 – Mount Everest Biogas Project, United States

The UIAA was founded in 1932 and has 91 member associations in 68 countries representing about 3 million climbers and mountaineers. The organization’s mission is to promote the growth and protection of climbing and mountaineering worldwide, advance safe and ethical mountain practices and promote responsible access, culture and environmental protection.

The organization operates through the work of its commissions which make recommendations, set policy and advocate on behalf of the climbing and mountaineering community. The UIAA is recognized by the International Olympic Committee.

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UIAA OFFICE
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Tel: +41 (0)31 370 1828news

http://mteverestbiogasproject.org/about-us/

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UIAA News Release – Final Calendar 2018 UIAA Ice Climbing season

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2018 UIAA ICE CLIMBING CALENDAR CONFIRMED
From Domžale to KirovPrepare your crampons, sharpen your ice axes and hone your figure 4s. The 2018 UIAA Ice Climbing calendar has now been finalized with competition commencing on 2 December in Domžale, Slovenia and closing three months later with the World Cup finale in Kirov, Russia. Ten different countries will host events with in excess of 400 ice climbers expected to take part in the season.“The new season promises to be bigger than ever with a number of exciting competition formats and a chance for ice climbers to test themselves in a number of challenging international, continental and youth events,” explains Carlos Teixeira, President of the UIAA Ice Climbing Commission.

The pinnacle events are the five World Cup competitions organized as part of the UIAA Ice Climbing World Tour. The iconic dome of Saas Fee hosts the opening event before a leg in another popular European destination, Rabenstein. Back-to-back competitions in Asia will be held in Beijing, home to the 2022 Olympic Winter Games – an event the UIAA is targeting for ice climbing’s entry into the Olympic programme – and in Cheongsong, South Korea shortly before the 2018 Olympic Winter Games start in PyeongChang. Kirov will host the World Cup showdown where the identity of the male and female winner of the World Tour will be announced. The current champions are HeeYong Park (pictured below) and Hannarai Song of South Korea in lead; Vladimir Kartashev and Ekaterina Koshcheeva of Russia in speed.

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The 2018 season, partnered by The North Face Korea, introduces the European Tour with three different events held before the end of January and a final one at the end of February. Non-European athletes are eligible for these competitions which also provide an opportunity for those new to the sport and U16s. The third event of the season in Champagny/Pays des Ecrins will play host to an international combined test event where a new combined lead and speed format will be introduced. Meanwhile, youth athletes will take centrestage in Malbun, Liechtenstein during the annual World Youth Championships.

An Athlete’s Guide will be available shortly together with the 2018 Rules and Regulations. Details on livestreaming, how to follow the events and the UIAA’s production plan will be confirmed in due course.

The full calendar:

2018 UIAA Ice Climbing World Tour
UIAA Ice Climbing World Cup Saas Fee (Switzerland) – 18-20 January, 2018
UIAA Ice Climbing World Cup Rabenstein (Italy) – 25-27 January, 2018
UIAA Ice Climbing World Cup Beijing (China) – 2-4 February, 2018 (dates TBC in coming days)
UIAA Ice Climbing World Cup Cheongsong (South Korea) – 9-11 February, 2018
UIAA Ice Climbing World Cup Kirov (Russia) – 2-4 March, 2018

UIAA Continental Championships
Asian Championships, Cheongsong (South Korea) – 9-11 February, 2018**
European Championships, Kirov (Russia) – 2-4 March, 2018**
**Part of World Tour event

2018 XXIII Olympic Winter Games
PyeongChang (South Korea) – 9-25 February

UIAA Ice Climbing World Youth Championships
Malbun (Liechtenstein), 5-7 January

European Tour
European Cup Lead Domžale (Slovenia) – 2 December, 2017
European Cup Bratislava (Slovakia) – 9 December, 2017
**European Cup Champagny/Pays des Ecrins (France) – 11-13 January, 2018
**Please note this event comprises the International Combined Test Event
European Cup Oulu (Finland) – 24-25 February, 2018

To discover more about the UIAA and Ice Climbing please visit:
http://theuiaa.org/ice-climbing

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The UIAA was founded in 1932 and has 91 member associations in 68 countries representing about 3 million climbers and mountaineers. The organization’s mission is to promote the growth and protection of climbing and mountaineering worldwide, advance safe and ethical mountain practices and promote responsible access, culture and environmental protection.

The organization operates through the work of its commissions which make recommendations, set policy and advocate on behalf of the climbing and mountaineering community. The UIAA is recognized by the International Olympic Committee.

6d9abe3e-933e-4d40-a004-48ceeda9044b.png
bbc6fbb5-59ce-447d-b3a4-41f55d634d8c.png
6d9abe3e-933e-4d40-a004-48ceeda9044b.png
UIAA OFFICE
Monbijoustrasse 61 Postfach CH-3000
Bern 23, Switzerland
Tel: +41 (0)31 370 1828
news

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UIAA News Release_Nominees for 2017 UIAA Mountain Protection Award

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UIAA News Release.
15, October 2017
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UIAA MOUNTAIN PROTECTION AWARD
2017 WINNER ANNOUNCED ON 21 OCTOBER IN SHIRAZ, IRAN

22 GLOBAL PROJECTS IN CONTENTION

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Twenty-two international projects have been nominated for the 2017 UIAA Mountain Protection Award. From Croatian caves to the European Alps, Everest to Patagonia and Denali to Damavand, the 2017 Award unites a diverse array of projects across climate change, culture and education, waste management and disposal, conservation of biodiversity and resources and energy consumption.

Taking into account the 2017 edition, the UIAA Mountain Protection Award has now showcased over 80 projects from 37 countries during its five-year history. New countries this year include Colombia, Croatia, Lebanon and the Philippines. The benefits of being part of the Award are not only felt by the winner, recipient of a cash prize and international promotion through the UIAA network, but by all showcased projects. Details about each project are currently being shared through the UIAA’s social media channels and each nominee receives a dedicated UIAA MPA logo as confirmation that their project has been assessed and approved by a UIAA panel of assessors.
f8ecdac8-9c39-45e7-ba9e-1701f1f2cea2.pngBeing part of an international network also enables projects to exchange ideas, best practices and discuss common challenges. The 2017 Award winner will be announced at the UIAA General Assembly in Shiraz, Iran on Saturday 21 October. Past winners have come from Ethiopia, Tajikistan, Nepal and France, demonstrating the global reach of the Award. As Aslisho Qurboniev from 2014 winner Pamir Horse Adventure explains winning the Award provides projects engaged in sustainable mountain tourism with a significant ‘jump’. “After we were selected as the winners by the UIAA Mountain Protection Commission our confidence was bolstered. Winning the Award gave us a lot of publicity, locally and internationally, both on the relevant mountain protection platforms and in the community-based tourism sector. We made good use of the opportunity to promote our activities and our tourism destinations. We devoted the financial award to sponsoring our community-based tourism activities and to attending international conferences.”

The UIAA takes the opportunity to thank the 26 projects who applied for the 2017 Award and the Mountain Protection Award Assessment Team for their commitment and expertise.

A press release dedicated to the announcement of the 2017 winner will be available on Monday 23 October.

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Video: 2017 UIAA Mountain Protection Award
22 NOMINEES: 2017 UIAA MOUNTAIN PROTECTION AWARD

Argentina: Mujer Montaña
Mountains for Life; Cordillera Blanca, Our Ecological Footprint

Argentina: Project Aconcagua
Implementation of human waste disposal measures at base and high altitude camps

Austria: Alpine Pearls
Supporting environmentally friendly travel

Azerbaijan: FAIREX
Less In, More Out

Cambodia: Wildlife Alliance
Community-based ecotourism in the Cardamon Mountain Range, Cambodia

Colombia: Fundación Edenes de Colombia
Acceso a paraísos de Colombia (Access to Colombia’s paradises)

Colombia: Project Cordillera
Connecting adventure tourism with high mountain communities and local efforts to protect the environment

Croatia: Zagreb Speleological Union
Clean underground

International: Biosphere Expeditions
Mountain protection worldwide through citizen science and volunteering

Iran: I.R Iran Mountaineering & Sport Climbing Federation
Waste Management, Education Mountaineers and Cultural Affairs in Damavand

Ireland: Help the Hills
Tallaght: ‘Gateway to the Dublin Mountains’

Italy: Fondation Grand Paradis
I.T.E.R – Imaginer Un Transport Efficace et Responsable

Italy: Giroparchi
Discovery journey of the areas of the Gran Paradiso and Mont Avic parks

Italy: Paraloup
La Montagna che Rinasce (The Reborn mountain)

Italy: Rê.V.E. – Grand Paradis
A network of electric vehicles

Italy/Philippines: La Venta Esplorazioni Geografiche
Support for sustainable eco-tourism in Puerto Princesa underground river (Palawan, Philippines)

Latin America: Acceso PanAM
Managing human waste in advance base camps in Patagonia

Lebanon: Mount Zayan
Environmental education and accessible trails for eco-tourists

United Kingdom: Community Action Nepal
Post-earthquake recover programme in Nepalese mountain communities

United States: Clean Climbing on Denali
The removal of all waste

United States: Mount Everest Biogas Project
Environmentally sustainable solution to the impact of human waste on Mount Everest and beyond

United States: Wilderness Rock Climbing Indicators and Climbing Management Implications
Health of the climbing system as a part of wilderness character in National Park Wilderness

Further details: Mountain Protection Award
Contact: mountainprotection

Main Image: Courtesy of Project Cordillera

The UIAA was founded in 1932 and has 91 member associations in 68 countries representing about 3 million climbers and mountaineers. The organization’s mission is to promote the growth and protection of climbing and mountaineering worldwide, advance safe and ethical mountain practices and promote responsible access, culture and environmental protection.

The organization operates through the work of its commissions which make recommendations, set policy and advocate on behalf of the climbing and mountaineering community. The UIAA is recognized by the International Olympic Committee.

bbc6fbb5-59ce-447d-b3a4-41f55d634d8c.png
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UIAA OFFICE
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