Nepal Mountaineering Association working on Himalayan issues
Posted: July 3, 2014 Filed under: Mountaineering | Tags: Climbing, Everest, Himalayas, International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation, Mount Everest, Mt. Everest, Nepal, Nepal Mountaineering Association, Recreation, Sherpa people, UIAA Leave a commentReport to the International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation (UIAA) shows efforts and hard work to make mountaineering a great sport and occupation
Ang Tshering Sherpa has filed a report with the UIAA with updates on the work the association is doing. The association has been around for years, however the avalanche on Mt. Everest this spring has prompted this new round of action on behalf of the association.
This is a very comprehensive report showing work on dozens of topics.
See Nepal Himalaya issues being addressed by the Nepal Mountaineering Association
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Sustainable Summits: The International Mountain Conference on Environmental Practices
Posted: July 1, 2014 Filed under: Mountaineering | Tags: #AAC, American Alpine Club, American Mountaineering Center, Colorado, Denali, Golden, Mount Everest, Seven Summits, Sustainable Summits, UIAA Leave a commentThe American Alpine Club (AAC), in collaboration with Denali National Park will host this event at the Mountaineering Center in Golden Colorado July 20-23.
Registration for the Sustainable Summits Conference, July 20-24, is open to all individuals interested in mountain sustainability, as well as those seeking training and professional networking opportunities. For conference information and online registration go to http://www.americanalpineclub.org/p/sustainable_summits.
Contacts:
Roger Robinson, conference co-director sustainable.summits@gmail.com
Remy Rodriguez rrodriguez@americanalpineclub.org
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15% OFF American Alpine Club Membership – Today, March 8 Only!
Posted: March 8, 2013 Filed under: Uncategorized | Tags: #AAC, American Alpine Club, Membership, Mount Everest, United States, x, y, z Leave a comment
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Explore Mt Everest – Online with the American Alpine Club
Posted: February 19, 2013 Filed under: Uncategorized | Tags: #AAC, American Alpine Club, Jim Whittaker, Mount Everest, Tom Hornbein, x, y, z Leave a comment |
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Article attempts to describe people dying on Everest as part psychological trap
Posted: June 20, 2012 Filed under: Mountaineering | Tags: Climbing, Everest, Mount Everest, Mountain Climbing, Mountaineering, Mt Everest, Nepal, South Col Leave a commentProbably, the article is right; however, the article misses one major issue; a lot of people climbing Everest are there because they can afford it, not because they know what they are doing.
This past 2012 Everest season garnered a lot of press. A month of slow news days put Everest back in the spotlight. When four people died in one
Mount Everest from Kalapatthar. (Photo credit: Wikipedia)
day, it made everyone’s news radar. This article, Everest’s Psychological Trap: How the tallest mountain warps climbers’ minds attempts to describe how people believe they can get beyond their turnaround time and still survive.
I believe the article is right.
The article describes the phenomenon as a mind trap. There are several different variations to the mind trap, one which the author calls the red lining. Red lining is having a turnaround time, a drop-dead time as I call you. (If you don’t turn around, then, you will drop dead.)
The author then explains that once you pass your turnaround time, there is nothing to stop you or make you think. There are no more deadlines. When you are sleeping and you hit the snooze button, you still have to be at work by 8:00 AM. On Everest once you pass your turn-around time; you still have the rest of your life, which you may be counting in hours rather than in a year.
The problem is that once we go over the red line, there are no more boundaries. Nothing calling you back to the safe side. And in a brutally tough environment like Everest, once Mother Nature’s jaws slam shut, there may be no one to help you.
The article does miss that last sentence which to this day is miss understood by everyone who has not been above tree line and a lot of people on Everest. By help, the only thing that can be done is to yell at you. There is no one above the South Col that can drag you down from there. That can assist you in getting down. It is physically impossible. Once you hit the snow, you are going to lay there until you die or until you regain enough to stand up again and walk back. However, this last thing has only been accomplished by two climbers on Everest that I know about.
One of the four victims supposedly asked for help as her last words. There is no help at 28000’. See ‘Save me’: last words of Mount Everest climber.
I also believe the article applies to people who are attempting to the highest mountain on the Earth the cheapest way possible. A guide can’t save your life once you hit the ground. A guide can tell you to turn around when you hit your time deadline and keep yelling and pulling on you until you do turn around.
If you have the money to hire a better company, you get a better guide to climber ratio. You get someone who by the summit day knows you, understands you a little and can continuously pester you into turning around rather than running off to check on several other people. Someone who can get in your face and turn you around physically and mentally.
Do Something
Climbers who did not hire guides got to Everest by turning around a lot. If you did not learn your body and did not learn to turn around, you did not live long enough to get to Everest. Even so, Everest is littered with bodies of guides and successful mountaineers, who did not understand, chose to ignore or just could only see the summit.
Read the article, it is interesting, whether you are going to Nepal or just watching a Discovery Channel special on Everest.
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You’re Invited to the 2012 International Climbers’ Meet, hosted by the AAC
Posted: June 7, 2012 Filed under: Youth Camps, Zip Line | Tags: #AAC, American Alpine Club, Climbing, Edmund Hillary, George Lowe, International Climber’s Meet, Mount Everest, Rock climbing, Tenzing Norgay, Yosemite, Yosemite National Park, Yosemite Valley Leave a comment
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PR piece with great information on building to climbing a big mountain
Posted: February 21, 2012 Filed under: Mountaineering | Tags: Climbing, Everest, IMG, International Mountain Guides, Mount Everest, Mountaineering, Mountains, Nepal, Recreation, Sherpa Leave a comment
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Start Small (Relatively Speaking) For beginner climbers it’s important to set yourself up for success. Remember you can’t eat an elephant in one bite. We get a lot of “I want to climb Everest….what should I do?” And the answer is always the same: Have you climbed Mt. Rainier? Mt. Baker? Something in the North Cascades? If the answer is no, then we know where we need to start. Unfortunately a lot of folks try to run in crampons before they know how to walk in them. Let’s see if you even like climbing before we get you to the South Col on Everest! Are your knees shot? No excuses…try a trek. Machu Picchu, Everest Base Camp, or even Kilimanjaro! We’ll take care of the weight on your back and the logistics – you just put one foot in front of the other. ________________________________________ |
Ok, I’ve Climbed A Few Things – Now What?
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We hear this a lot: “Last summer I climbed Mt. Rainier and had a blast! The summer before that my wife and I climbed Shuksan and it was super fun. This year we want another challenge – what do you recommend?” This is a great question and one that is fun to answer. Once you’ve got a couple climbs under your belt the world starts opening up. Climbs in Mexico, Ecuador, and Bolivia, or climbs like Mt. Bona, Mt. Whitney, and Chulu Peak, are popular ‘next steps’ after a first or second climb. Many of these programs feature cultural aspects to them, so be sure look at the non-climbing days on the itinerary to see what else you’d enjoy on the program. ________________________________________ |
Bolivia Was Fun, Now Can I Climb Everest?
| Ok, so you’ve climbed a few things and you’ve got you eyes on one of the big guys! It’s important to keep in mind that every mountain is different and can have its own prerequisites. Take Denali for example, success on Rainier in the summer and a high five on the summit of Aconcagua often isn’t enough. A Denali Prep Course on Rainier is needed to get you qualified for Denali. The same goes for Everest, a summit of Rainier and success at altitude in Mexico just doesn’t cut it, whereas going to Cho Oyuto test your lungs at 8000m is often the route of choice for our Everest climbers.The point being, there is no tried and true recipe to the top of the world. Some people just let the cards fall where they may and climb as their vacation, families, and resources allow. Others set long term goals and map out a 5-year plan.
Regardless of what type of climber you are or what your goals may be: if you’re having fun, you’re doing it right. ________________________________________ |
From A Guide’s Perspective: Staying In Shape
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By Jess Culver
Lets face it, it’s hard to stay in shape between seasons. It starts when the Halloween candy comes out, gets even worse come Thanksgiving and hits its peak somewhere between Christmas and New Years. Then, the 1st of the year rolls around and you’re a few pounds guiltier and several pounds heavier. Finding the motivation to shed this weight can be tough. Here are some tips I use between seasons. For me, I know I have to be in good shape when the Rainier season opens, which is probably in the back of a lot of your minds as well. With that in mind, I’ve found that setting small goals between big goals really makes the time go by a lot quicker than the alternative: 4-5 days a week on the hamster wheel. I like to sign up for a few running races in the winter and spring. I’ll start small, maybe a 5k, then work up to a 10k and eventually a half-marathon and then the full 26.2. There are countless programs out there that will set you up for success at these races. They work if you’re honest with yourself and stick to the program. And don’t be intimidated by the people that run these races, they are all smiles and are super supportive to all shapes, sizes and speeds. Trust me, you’ll have a blast. (Read more)
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Medical Minutes by Adventure Medical Kits
Q: What should you do if you find yourself in the mountains without adequate eye protection?
A: Improvise
It is possible to improvise a pair of “sunglasses” that will help protect eyes from ultraviolet light, especially in snow and at elevations above 2500m (8000 feet). Cut small slits in a piece of cardboard (e.g., use one side of a cracker or cereal box) or in a piece of duct tape folded back over onto itself (Fig. 25). The slits should be just wide enough to see through, and no larger than the diameter of the eye. Tape or tie these “sunglasses” around the head to minimize the amount of light hitting the eyes.
If you remember from a previous newsletter snow blindness is a sunburn to the eye that results in a corneal abrasion. It results from exposure to intense ultraviolet radiation at high altitude or while traveling in the snow. At higher elevations, more ultraviolet light is easily reflected off snow. Because signs and symptoms of snow blindness are delayed by about 4 to 6 hours from the time of exposure to the light, victims are unaware that the injury is occurring until it is too late to prevent it. Wearing adequate eye protection (100 percent UV-blocking sunglasses with side protectors) can prevent snow blindness. (read more)
Image via Wikipedia
25 Great Years Thanks To You!
Posted: January 10, 2012 Filed under: Mountaineering | Tags: Climbing, Dick Bass, Everest, Guided Climbing, Guides, IMG, IMG (company), International Mountain Guides, Mount Everest, Mount Rainier, Recreation, Seven Summit Leave a commentInternational Mountain Guides is 25 Years Old. Congratulations
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Personal Press Release
Posted: May 14, 2008 Filed under: Uncategorized | Tags: Climbing, Mount Everest, Mountaineering, PBS, Public Broadcasting Service, Recreation 3 CommentsAs I mentioned in an earlier post, PBS tonight aired Storm Over Everest. I was asked to participate in a panel discussion on the ethics of guided climbing. You can see the panel discussion at Roundtable: The Ethics of Climbing.
Storm Over Everest
Posted: April 17, 2008 Filed under: Mountaineering, Uncategorized | Tags: Altitude, Climbing, David Breashears, Everest, Expeditions, Mount Everest, Mountaineering, Recreation Leave a commentDavid Breashears has created a stirring and thought provoking movie in Storm over Everest. I saw the movie last year at the Telluride MountainFilm
Image via Wikipedia
Festival. The premise of the story is people who survived the 1996 Everest storms. David went back and interviewed the survivors, all but one I believe, from the 1996 Everest mess. (I am hesitant to call any wilderness high altitude death a disaster, it is simply what the mountain, weather, time and luck create). The recollections and thoughts about what happened ten years later are thought provoking, scary, exhilarating and very interesting.
For more information about the film see PBS Frontline Storm Over Everest which is scheduled to premiere May 13, 2008.
What struck me though was the attitude of the people ten years later. Some of them are still a little dumb founded they were not rescued by their guides. It is not overt statements by the survivors, but subtle statements that show a little confusion or mystery in the participants mind.
If you are an outfitter or guide, you might want to watch to see how your participants may look at you for their safety.
Either way, the movie answers a lot of questions about that chapter of Everest’s history and is truly worth seeing.
Image via Wikipedia
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