UIAA Newsletter_December 2017

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The UIAA newsletter. December 2017
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The UIAA. Newsletter. December 2017.
Welcome to the latest UIAA newsletter.

During the month of November, the UIAA played a leading role in mountain sustainability discussions at both the International Federation Forum in Lausanne and in Bonn during the 23rd United Nations Framework Convention on Climate Change (UNFCCC) – COP23. Ahead of 11 December’s International Mountain Day (IMD) titled ‘Mountains under Pressure: climate, hunger, migration’, the UIAA invites its member federations to share news of their IMD activities with news. The UIAA Ice Climbing season starts this weekend as the countdown to January’s World Cup series gains momentum. Meanwhile, application for the 2018 UIAA Rock Climbing awards is open and the UIAA MedCom shares advice for gap year and charity-event travellers.
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INTERNATIONAL FEDERATION FORUM
UIAA’S INTEGRAL ROLE IN SUSTAINABILITY DISCUSSIONSOn 9 November, the UIAA took part in a panel discussion at Sport Accord’s International Federation Forum (IF) in Lausanne, Switzerland discussing the relationship between sport and biodiversity and the role of the sporting community. The theme of the three day conference was the International Federations’ Impact In Leading The Way To Towards A Sustainability Agenda. The IF Forum programme is a collaboration between the International Olympic Committee (IOC), the Global Association of International Sport Federations (GAISF), the Association of Summer International Federations (ASOIF), the Association of Winter Olympic Federations (AIOWF),the Association of the IOC Recognized International Sports Federations (ARISF), AIMS (Alliance of Independent Members of SportAccord) and Associate Members. Full story here
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2018 UIAA ROCK CLIMBING FESTIVAL AWARD
APPLICATION OPEN

The international rock climbing community is informed that application for the 2018 UAA Rock Climbing Festival Award is now open. The annual Award was created in 2015 and is granted to the festival which best demonstrates a commitment to safety, sustainability and the development of rock climbing as a sport. The chosen festival is selected from a shortlist of applicants and chosen by the UIAA Rock Climbing Working Group. To date, Award winners have come from Africa (South Africa, 2015), Europe (Greece, 2016) and North America (USA, 2017). Please note, for 2018 the UIAA is inviting applications from festivals held in South America. Full story here.

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FEDME’S MOUNTAIN SAFETY COMMITMENT
SPANISH FEDERATION MAKING IMPRESSIVE STRIDESOver last few years, FEDME (Federación Española de Deportes de Montaña y Escalada), a full UIAA member, has reinforced its commitment to mountain safety, introducing a number of innovative and extensive measures to expand knowledge and consciousness about mountain safety on national level. One of their recent successes saw the publication of a detailed report about tests carried out on anchors in the marine environment. Here is their story.Full story here.
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In collaboration with Mountain Partnership, the UIAA took part in a side event discussion during COP23, titled “Implementing the 2030 Agenda & Paris Agreement in mountains: building a Framework for Action” during COP23. A video replay of the side panel discussion is embedded (starting at 7:15.00)

Organized by Mountain Partnership, the Government of Kyrgyzstan and the UIAA, the panel explored common challenges and solutions for addressing climate change impacts in mountains during the event, supporting concrete actions, putting in place long-lasting processes and establishing policies that strengthen the resilience of mountain peoples and environments. The UIAA was represented by Mountain Protection Commission delegate Joop Spijker (NKBC, Netherlands). He addressed the subject of mountaineering and climate change. UIAA Honorary Member Ang Tshering Sherpa (NMA, Nepal) also took part introducing ‘Community Experience of the Climate Change in the Himalayas and Solutions’.

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2018 UIAA ICE CLIMBING SEASON
IMPORTANT UPDATES

The first event of the new UIAA Ice Climbing season starts this weekend in Domzale (Slovenia), a perfect opportunity for young athletes to develop their skills and senior campaigners to prepare for the UIAA Ice Climbing World Tour in January.

The following links provide useful information about the 2018 season.
Latest Updates – including final calendar
A guide to the European Cups
Athletes’ Handbook
Rules & Regulations
UIAA & Ice Climbing

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HOW TO CHECK THE QUALITY OF A COMMERCIALLY ORGANISED TREK OR EXPEDITION
LATEST UIAA MEDCOM ADVICE

This, the sixth article in the UIAA’s series dedicated to high-altitude medical advice, has a very clear target audience, principally trekking or expedition company operators and their potential clients, notably those on gap years, round the world tickets or taking part in charity events.

As the number of mountaineers who are joining organised treks or expeditions continues to increase, so does the incidence of altitude-related diseases. Technically simple high altitude treks and peaks with easy access such as Kilimanjaro, Aconcagua, or the Everest trek (with fly-in to Lukla) are still potentially dangerous because of the rapid ascent profile undertaken by many trekkers and/or offered by numerous trekking companies. Full story here.

FROM THE UIAA NEWSROOM

Following on from October’s UIAA General Assembly, the UIAA Access Commission led a mountain workshop in Tehran. Angelika Rainer, one of the stars of the UIAA Ice Climbing World Tour recently made history. Hohhot is confirmed as the venue for the Chinese leg of the 2018 UIAA Ice Climbing World Tour. Registration for two 2018 UIAA youth camps in France – part of the Global Youth Summit series – is now open.

UPCOMING EVENTS
2 December
ICE CLIMBING – EUROPEAN CUP
Domzale, Slovenia
9 December
ICE CLIMBING – EUROPEAN CUP
Bratislava, Slovakia
11 December
INTERNATIONAL MOUNTAIN DAY
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The UIAA was founded in 1932 and has 92 member associations in 68 countries representing about 3 million climbers and mountaineers. The organization’s mission is to promote the growth and protection of climbing and mountaineering worldwide, advance safe and ethical mountain practices and promote responsible access, culture and environmental protection.

The organization operates through the work of its commissions which make recommendations, set policy and advocate on behalf of the climbing and mountaineering community. The UIAA is recognized by the International Olympic Committee (IOC).

You received this message as a subscriber to the UIAA monthly newsletter.

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Tel: +41 (0)31 370 1828

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UIAA Updates: If you are a Rock Climber or Mountaineer this Great Organization is part of your Life.

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Welcome to UIAA Newsletter – November 2015
Issue No. 0

Everest2.jpg UIAA Statement regarding Proposed Restrictions on Mount Everest

The UIAA fully supports the decision by Nepalese authorities to propose more stringent measures for climbers wishing to scale the world’s highest peak, Mount Everest (29,029ft / 8,848m). These measures will include individuals having to prove they have already scaled a peak in excess of 6,500m, eliminating the possibility of novice climbers scaling the mountain. Read More

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Member Federations
IMG_7379_Marco-Frattini.jpg Join the UIAA in supporting the World Food Programme and Nepal Mountaineering Association’s response in Nepal
Following the April earthquake that shook Nepal and left thousands of people stranded in remote locations beyond the access of roads and helicopters, the World Food Programme (WFP) set up a Remote Access Operation to reach survivors with life-saving food, medicine and shelter. … Read More
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Safety
bolt.jpg New Download: UIAA Warning About Climbing Anchor Failures
The UIAA Safety Commission has produced an extensive document ‘Watch Your Anchor! Corrosion and Stress Corrosion Cracking Failure of Climbing Anchors’. … Read More
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Sustainability
test2.jpg The UIAA integrates Respect the Mountains
The UIAA is delighted to announce the extension of its activities in mountain preservation through the recent addition of the Respect the Mountains campaign. … Read More
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General Assembly
LEA_4284.jpg Images: 2015 UIAA General Assembly
Member federations can access the photo library from the 2015 UIAA General by accessing the UIAA Flickr account at the following link. … Read More
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Mountain Protection
MPA15_banner.jpg 2015 UIAA Mountain Protection Award Winner
KTK-BELT Studio joins impressive list of UIAA Mountain Protection Award recipients … Read More
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Competition Sports
herndon_ben_bif17_UIAAnewsletter-6.jpg Confirmation: UIAA Ice Climbing Event in Bozeman, Montana goes ahead
The UIAA informs member federations, athletes and the ice climbing community that the 2016 UIAA Ice Climbing World Tour season opener in Bozeman, Montana scheduled for 11-12 December will go ahead as planned. … Read More
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Youth
IYCI_Italy1.png Registration for 2016 International Youth Ice Climbing Camp (Italy) open
Information is now available – and registration open – for the 2016 International Youth Climbing Camp in Italy. … Read More
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Guillestre-region-IMG_3686.jpg 2016 International Youth Ice Climbing Camp (France) registration open
Full details about February’s International Youth Ice Climbing camp in France are now available. … Read More
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10 – 12 December 2015
UIAA Ice Climbing World Cup & NA Championships
Bozeman, MT. USA16 – 17 January 2016
UIAA Ice Climbing World Cup & Asian Championships
Cheongsong. Korea

22 – 23 January 2016
UIAA Ice Climbing World Cup
Saas Fee

29 – 31 January 2016
UIAA Ice Climbing World Cup
Rabenstein

06 – 07 February 2016
UIAA World Youth Championships – Rabenstein
Rabenstein

06 – 10 February 2016
International Youth Ice Climbing Camp
Valle Varaita (Cuneo)

See full calendar

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UIAA – International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation

Monbijoustrasse 61 Postbach CH-3000 Bern 23 Switzerland


American Alpine Club Journal is Looking for your Stories

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AAJ_Contribute_Graphic.6.jpgHi James,This year we will be delivering the American Alpine Journal in July, a month earlier—and that means our deadlines are approaching fast!

The AAJ is a collaborative effort, built by climbers and contributors like you from around the world. This means we depend on you and your friends to contribute your eyes and ears.

Get involved: Did you or someone you know do a new route in 2013? Did you climb or hear about a new route that’s regionally significant? Even if it’s only a few pitches long, we want to know about it. Maybe you discovered a new climbing area or did a first free ascent? Foreign expedition? Huge alpine climb? A new big-wall route? Well, the AAJ is the place to document it. Contribute to the 2014 AAJ.

We look forward to building this year’s AAJ with your input. Please contact us no later than January 31.

TELL US YOUR STORY


New Group formed to promote Freedom in Mountaineering. Fear that attorneys and media will close the mountains based on fear and failure to understand forced the formation of Italian Observatory for Liberty in Mountaineering

Liberty in Mountaineering to resist attempts by national or local authorities to constrain freedom of access and risk taking in mountaineering and climbing

Italian Observatory for Liberty in Mountaineering

Ice climbing

Ice climbing (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

Motivation and purposes.

The “Osservatorio per la Libertà in Alpinismo” (Observatory for Liberty in Mountaineering) is a Free Association, recognized by the Italian Alpine Club. Its purpose is the defense of liberty in the various mountaineering practices against the increasing tendency to restrain it. This tendency is typical of advanced societies, where the broad detachment from natural life generates an obsession against dangers in general.  This feature of the “société sécuritaire” is fostered by social tensions and by the wide diffusion of information.

The social rejection of the forms of liberty that imply dangers is particularly reactive to accidents in mountaineering, ski-mountaineering and climbing.   Out of it comes the restrictive interpretation of laws and the plan of oppressive ones.  Local authorities often set constraints to the access to mountain areas which are not justified by environmental concern.

The reaction to all this led the Italian Mountaineers to create the Observatory.  Its main purpose is to gather information about the threats to liberty and to react against attempts to constrain the freedom in mountaineering practices.  One of its main tasks is to deepen the understanding of the general public opinion and to let the public understand the values of the adventure in mountaineering and of the principles of liberty.

Obviously, liberty cannot reach as far as creating damages to anyone; the Italian Alpine Club runs powerful mountaineering and climbing schools all over the Country and steadily invites its members to have a sound approach to mountaineering.  But the Observatory does not accept critical arguments such as “dangers for the rescue teams” and “costs for the national health service”. No space here for details.

The negative vision of mountaineering can lead to constraints on access to adventure terrains, far beyond those that may be justified by environmental concern. This is a field of action for the Observatory, but even more important is the fight for freedom to take risks, which is an inherent feature of mountaineering.  Its importance is enhanced by the increasing tendency of advanced societies to infringe the right to risk taking in other fields of human activity.

This brief note is obviously confined to a few essential features of the menace to liberty, but an important point must still be mentioned, since it was recognized during the “Assises  de l’Alpinisme” that were held on 2011  in Grenoble and Chamonix:  the problem is international,  therefore it deserves attention by all Countries of UIAA.

Motivation and purposes.

Schitour am Hochkönig (Österreich)

Schitour am Hochkönig (Österreich) (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

The “Osservatorio per la Libertà in Alpinismo” (Observatory for Liberty in Mountaineering) is a Free Association, recognized by the Italian Alpine Club. Its purpose is the defense of liberty in the various mountaineering practices against the increasing tendency to restrain it. This tendency is typical of advanced societies, where the broad detachment from natural life generates an obsession against dangers in general.  This feature of the “société sécuritaire” is fostered by social tensions and by the wide diffusion of information.

The social rejection of the forms of liberty that imply dangers is particularly reactive to accidents in mountaineering, ski-mountaineering and climbing.   Out of it comes the restrictive interpretation of laws and the plan of oppressive ones.  Local authorities often set constraints to the access to mountain areas which are not justified by environmental concern.

The reaction to all this led the Italian Mountaineers to create the Observatory.  Its main purpose is to gather information about the threats to liberty and to react against attempts to constrain the freedom in mountaineering practices.  One of its main tasks is to deepen the understanding of the general public opinion and to let the public understand the values of the adventure in mountaineering and of the principles of liberty.

Obviously, liberty cannot reach as far as creating damages to anyone; the Italian Alpine Club runs powerful mountaineering and climbing schools all over the Country and steadily invites its members to have a sound approach to mountaineering.  But the Observatory does not accept critical arguments such as “dangers for the rescue teams” and “costs for the National Health Service”. No space here for details.

The negative vision of mountaineering can lead to constraints on access to adventure terrains, far beyond those that may be justified by environmental concern. This is a field of action for the Observatory, but even more important is the fight for freedom to take risks, which is an inherent feature of mountaineering.  Its importance is enhanced by the increasing tendency of advanced societies to infringe the right to risk taking in other fields of human activity.

This brief note is obviously confined to a few essential features of the menace to liberty, but an important point must still be mentioned, since it was recognized during the “Assises  de l’Alpinisme” that were held on 2011  in Grenoble and Chamonix:  the problem is international,  therefore it deserves attention by all Countries of UIAA.

Do SomethingUIAA Safety Label logo color1

Do you believe this is becoming a problem? I believe it is a very real problem. If you are a mountaineer you expect death. Yet the park service tried to yank a Denali permit from a commercial outfitter when they had one death. The permitee was given a non-preferential review even though the outfitter had a stellar record prior to the fatality. (See Top National Park Service Officials Reverse Decision Tied To Fatal Climbing Accident.)

I had a lady call me once about a zip line. The zip line was going in down the road from her and she did not want it.  I asked her why figuring she would say something about traffic on the road or the type of people zip lines attract and she said because they hurt and kill so many people.

See Jon Heshka and the Right of the Individual to Die Doing What We Love

It is our right to experience the world anyway we want. If that is sitting on a couch watching football, fine. If that is testing yourself against a mountain, the cold, testing yourself against yourself, then I believe it is fantastic. I understand I may die. I don’t believe I will die, but I understand the risks. I have looked at the risks and made the decision to live life rather than wait for death.

For more information about this organization see Italian observatory set to lobby for freedom in the mountains

What do you think? Leave a comment.

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Copyright 2013 Recreation Law (720) Edit Law

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By Recreation Law    Rec-law@recreation-law.com      James H. Moss         #Authorrank

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Article attempts to describe people dying on Everest as part psychological trap

Probably, the article is right; however, the article misses one major issue; a lot of people climbing Everest are there because they can afford it, not because they know what they are doing.

This past 2012 Everest season garnered a lot of press. A month of slow news days put Everest back in the spotlight. When four people died in one

Mount Everest from Kalapatthar.

Mount Everest from Kalapatthar. (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

day, it made everyone’s news radar. This article, Everest’s Psychological Trap: How the tallest mountain warps climbers’ minds attempts to describe how people believe they can get beyond their turnaround time and still survive.

I believe the article is right.

The article describes the phenomenon as a mind trap. There are several different variations to the mind trap, one which the author calls the red lining. Red lining is having a turnaround time, a drop-dead time as I call you. (If you don’t turn around, then, you will drop dead.)

The author then explains that once you pass your turnaround time, there is nothing to stop you or make you think. There are no more deadlines. When you are sleeping and you hit the snooze button, you still have to be at work by 8:00 AM. On Everest once you pass your turn-around time; you still have the rest of your life, which you may be counting in hours rather than in a year.

The problem is that once we go over the red line, there are no more boundaries. Nothing calling you back to the safe side. And in a brutally tough environment like Everest, once Mother Nature’s jaws slam shut, there may be no one to help you.

The article does miss that last sentence which to this day is miss understood by everyone who has not been above tree line and a lot of people on Everest. By help, the only thing that can be done is to yell at you. There is no one above the South Col that can drag you down from there. That can assist you in getting down. It is physically impossible. Once you hit the snow, you are going to lay there until you die or until you regain enough to stand up again and walk back. However, this last thing has only been accomplished by two climbers on Everest that I know about.

One of the four victims supposedly asked for help as her last words. There is no help at 28000’. See ‘Save me’: last words of Mount Everest climber.

I also believe the article applies to people who are attempting to the highest mountain on the Earth the cheapest way possible. A guide can’t save your life once you hit the ground. A guide can tell you to turn around when you hit your time deadline and keep yelling and pulling on you until you do turn around.

If you have the money to hire a better company, you get a better guide to climber ratio. You get someone who by the summit day knows you, understands you a little and can continuously pester you into turning around rather than running off to check on several other people. Someone who can get in your face and turn you around physically and mentally.

Do Something

Climbers who did not hire guides got to Everest by turning around a lot. If you did not learn your body and did not learn to turn around, you did not live long enough to get to Everest. Even so, Everest is littered with bodies of guides and successful mountaineers, who did not understand, chose to ignore or just could only see the summit.

Read the article, it is interesting, whether you are going to Nepal or just watching a Discovery Channel special on Everest.

What do you think? Leave a comment.

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Copyright 2012 Recreation Law (720) Edit Law

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