UIAA News Release – Final Calendar 2018 UIAA Ice Climbing season

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2018 UIAA ICE CLIMBING CALENDAR CONFIRMED
From Domžale to KirovPrepare your crampons, sharpen your ice axes and hone your figure 4s. The 2018 UIAA Ice Climbing calendar has now been finalized with competition commencing on 2 December in Domžale, Slovenia and closing three months later with the World Cup finale in Kirov, Russia. Ten different countries will host events with in excess of 400 ice climbers expected to take part in the season.“The new season promises to be bigger than ever with a number of exciting competition formats and a chance for ice climbers to test themselves in a number of challenging international, continental and youth events,” explains Carlos Teixeira, President of the UIAA Ice Climbing Commission.

The pinnacle events are the five World Cup competitions organized as part of the UIAA Ice Climbing World Tour. The iconic dome of Saas Fee hosts the opening event before a leg in another popular European destination, Rabenstein. Back-to-back competitions in Asia will be held in Beijing, home to the 2022 Olympic Winter Games – an event the UIAA is targeting for ice climbing’s entry into the Olympic programme – and in Cheongsong, South Korea shortly before the 2018 Olympic Winter Games start in PyeongChang. Kirov will host the World Cup showdown where the identity of the male and female winner of the World Tour will be announced. The current champions are HeeYong Park (pictured below) and Hannarai Song of South Korea in lead; Vladimir Kartashev and Ekaterina Koshcheeva of Russia in speed.

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The 2018 season, partnered by The North Face Korea, introduces the European Tour with three different events held before the end of January and a final one at the end of February. Non-European athletes are eligible for these competitions which also provide an opportunity for those new to the sport and U16s. The third event of the season in Champagny/Pays des Ecrins will play host to an international combined test event where a new combined lead and speed format will be introduced. Meanwhile, youth athletes will take centrestage in Malbun, Liechtenstein during the annual World Youth Championships.

An Athlete’s Guide will be available shortly together with the 2018 Rules and Regulations. Details on livestreaming, how to follow the events and the UIAA’s production plan will be confirmed in due course.

The full calendar:

2018 UIAA Ice Climbing World Tour
UIAA Ice Climbing World Cup Saas Fee (Switzerland) – 18-20 January, 2018
UIAA Ice Climbing World Cup Rabenstein (Italy) – 25-27 January, 2018
UIAA Ice Climbing World Cup Beijing (China) – 2-4 February, 2018 (dates TBC in coming days)
UIAA Ice Climbing World Cup Cheongsong (South Korea) – 9-11 February, 2018
UIAA Ice Climbing World Cup Kirov (Russia) – 2-4 March, 2018

UIAA Continental Championships
Asian Championships, Cheongsong (South Korea) – 9-11 February, 2018**
European Championships, Kirov (Russia) – 2-4 March, 2018**
**Part of World Tour event

2018 XXIII Olympic Winter Games
PyeongChang (South Korea) – 9-25 February

UIAA Ice Climbing World Youth Championships
Malbun (Liechtenstein), 5-7 January

European Tour
European Cup Lead Domžale (Slovenia) – 2 December, 2017
European Cup Bratislava (Slovakia) – 9 December, 2017
**European Cup Champagny/Pays des Ecrins (France) – 11-13 January, 2018
**Please note this event comprises the International Combined Test Event
European Cup Oulu (Finland) – 24-25 February, 2018

To discover more about the UIAA and Ice Climbing please visit:
http://theuiaa.org/ice-climbing

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The UIAA was founded in 1932 and has 91 member associations in 68 countries representing about 3 million climbers and mountaineers. The organization’s mission is to promote the growth and protection of climbing and mountaineering worldwide, advance safe and ethical mountain practices and promote responsible access, culture and environmental protection.

The organization operates through the work of its commissions which make recommendations, set policy and advocate on behalf of the climbing and mountaineering community. The UIAA is recognized by the International Olympic Committee.

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UIAA OFFICE
Monbijoustrasse 61 Postfach CH-3000
Bern 23, Switzerland
Tel: +41 (0)31 370 1828
news

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Update on Ice Climbing with the UIAA

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The UIAA News Release.
10, January 2017
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2017 UIAA Ice Climbing Season

Athletes from nearly twenty countries enjoy a competitive, close-fought UIAA Ice Climbing World Cup weekend as Russian athletes claim gold medals in lead and speed.

The UIAA Ice Climbing World Tour, partnered by The North Face Korea, heads to Cheongsong, South Korea next weekend for the third event of the season.

Two very distinct venues, four deserving gold medals winners and one memorable weekend of ice climbing.

Beijing is the new stop on the UIAA Ice Climbing World Tour and its excellent hosting of World Cup events in lead and speed from 7-9 January ensure athletes will be eager to return in the seasons to come.

First class facilities and hospitality were matched by two excellent venues for lead and speed as competition in the 2017 UIAA Ice Climbing season, partnered by The North Face Korea, intensified.

Ice duels

The speed competition, held on a mountainous cascade of ice was first to conclude. 37 male and 14 female athletes prepared to conquer a wall which bought multiple challenges and demanded nimble footwork, raw speed and core strength. The duel format is engaging, fast paced and winner takes all. Athlete against athlete until the field is whittled down.

By the men’s semi-final stage it was down to four Russian athletes. Each semi-final divided into two rounds. In the first duel Radomir Proshchenko saw off compatriot Nikolay Shved by a near five second margin. The second semi-final proved closer. This despite Vladimir Karthashev recording the second fastest time on ice over the weekend. A breathtaking 10.37 seconds on his first attempt. In the second climb rival athlete Nikolai Kuzovlev won comfortably but not by a significant enough margin to overturn the six second deficit he had incurred during a poor first climb.

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Video: Men’s Speed Final
The final was set. Proshchenko versus Karthashev. The latter edged the first climb. Barely time to catch their breath and the countdown started for the decisive second ascent. Proshchenko began with intent. Could he become the first athlete to break the 10-second barrier in Beijing? A costly slip halfway up the climb curtailed that ambition but he continued powerfully to defeat his rival by over two seconds and claim the gold medal. In the bronze medal encounter, Shved took the spoils.
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Video: Women’s Speed Final
The women’s speed final came down to two athletes with rich gold medal heritage. Maria Tolokonina is the defending World Cup champion in both lead and speed. Ekaterina Koshcheeva finished second in speed last year and won gold in Saas Fee. Despite a few stuttering moments, Koshcheeva took the first climb by .26 seconds. The defending champion had to claw her way back. However, on the second climb it was Koshcheeva who exerted her dominance as a tired Tolokonina made a costly slip. A well deserved gold medal. Completing the podium was Nadezhda Gallyamova.

Redemption in lead

42 male athletes and 22 female athletes contested the lead competition at a recently revamped, state-of-the-art venue in Beijing.

A number of athletes compete in both the speed and lead events. No small feat for the likes of Maria Tolokonina who had given her all in Sunday’s speed competition. After claiming silver in the speed final, Tolokonina showed her class throughout Monday’s lead competition, winning each of the rounds. In the final she completed the climb in a faster time than Korean athletes Shin Woonseon, gold medal winner in Durango, and the ever impressive Song Han Na Rai. Her outpouring of emotion at the end of climb demonstrated how hard she had worked.

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Video: Maria Tolokonina (Russia), winning lead climb
The men’s lead competition finely demonstrated the competitive, international nature of the field. The top five places were occupied by athletes from different countries. Defending champion Maxim Tomilov failed to make the final. Finishing fifth Janez Svoljsak from Slovenia continues to improve season after season; following an excellent climb in Durango, Canada’s Noah Beek took fourth place. Yannick Glatthard, Switzerland’s rising ice climbing star claimed bronze while HeeYong Park warmed up for his homecoming climb in Cheongsong with a silver medal. Dominant in the semi-final, gold went to Nikolai Kuzovlev. Like Tolokonina, he showed great resilience and strength of character in recovering from a tough speed competition.
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Video: Nikolai Kuzovlev (Russia), winning lead climb
The UIAA thanks all of the event organisers and the Chinese Mountaineering Association (CMA) for their hospitality and excellent organization of the event.

Results

Men’s Lead

1. Nikolai KUZOVLEV, RUS
2. Park HEEYONG, KOR
3. Yannick GLATTHARD, SUI
4. Noah BEEK, CAN
5. Janez SVOLJSAK, SLO

Men’s Speed

1. Radomir PROSHCHENKO, RUS
2. Vladimir KARTASHEV, RUS
3. Nikolay SHVED, RUS
4. Nikolai KUZOVLEV, RUS

Women’s Lead

1. Maria TOLOKONINA, RUS
2. Shin WOONSEON, KOR
3. Song HAN NA RAI, KOR
4. Ekaterina VLASOVA, RUS
5. Mariia EDLER, RUS

Women’s Speed

1. Ekaterina KOSHCHEEVA, RUS
2. Maria TOLOKONINA, RUS
3. Nadezhda GALLYAMOVA, RUS
4. Ekaterina FEOKTISTOVA, RUS

Full results from Beijing and season standings can be found on the live UIAA Ice Climbing page.

Follow the action

Images from World Cup event in Beijing will shortly be available on the UIAA Flickr channel.

Video highlights from Beijing, including livestreaming playback can be viewed on the UIAA YouTube channel.

Livestreaming will be provided from the next round of action as Cheongsong, South Korea hosts the third event of the season next weekend.

Competition Schedule

World Cup
14-15 January, Cheongsong (South Korea)
20-21 January, Saas Fee (Switzerland)
28-29 January, Rabenstein (Italy)

UIAA Ice Climbing World Championships
4-5 February, Champagny-en-Vanoise (France)

UIAA Ice Climbing World Youth Championships
10-11 February, Champagny-en-Vanoise (France)
Main Image: Xinhua Sports

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The UIAA was founded in 1932 and has 92 member associations in 69 countries representing about 3 million climbers and mountaineers. The organization’s mission is to promote the growth and protection of climbing and mountaineering worldwide, advance safe and ethical mountain practices and promote responsible access, culture and environmental protection.

The organization operates through the work of its commissions which make recommendations, set policy and advocate on behalf of the climbing and mountaineering community. The UIAA is recognized by the International Olympic Committee.

UIAA OFFICE
Monbijoustrasse 61 Postfach CH-3000
Bern 23, Switzerland
Tel: +41 (0)31 370 1828
news

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CAMP USA Recalls Blade Runner Crampons Due to Fall Hazard

http://www.cpsc.gov/en/Recalls/2015/CAMP-USA-Recalls-Blade-Runner-Crampons/

Name of Product: Cassin Blade Runner and Blade Runner Alpine Crampons

Hazard: The front part, where the points connect to the crampons, can break, posing a fall hazard. 

Remedy: Repair

Consumers should immediately stop using these recalled crampons and contact the firm for instructions on receiving free replacement parts.

Consumer Contact: CAMP USA toll-free at 877-421-2267 from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. MT Monday through Friday or online at http://www.camp-usa.com  and click on the Safety Notices link at the bottom of the page then click on Blade Runner Crampon for more information.

Photos available at http://www.cpsc.gov/en/Recalls/2015/CAMP-USA-Recalls-Blade-Runner-Crampons/

Recall Details

Units: About 900 (in addition, 20 were sold in Canada)

Description: This recall involves all Cassin Blade Runner and Blade Runner Alpine crampons.  Crampons are used for ice climbing and attach to footwear allowing the front points of the crampon to cut into the snow or ice. The Blade Runner crampons have two ice front points and the Blade Runner Alpine crampons have two snow front points. “Sandvik Nanoflex” is printed on a rubber label attached to the gray nylon ankle strap. “Cassin” and “Blade Runner” are stamped on the orange traction plate on the foot of the crampon. The crampon frames are made of Chromoly and Nanoflex® steel.

Incidents/Injuries: CAMP USA has received three reports of these crampons breaking during use. No injuries have been reported. 

Sold at: Specialty outdoor retailers nationwide and online at backcountry.com, camp-usa.com and mountaingear.com from June 2013 to June 2015 for about $350.

Importer/Distributor: CAMP USA Inc., of Broomfield, Colo.

Manufactured in: Italy

Note: Health Canada’s press release is available at http://healthycanadians.gc.ca/recall-alert-rappel-avis/hc-sc/2015/54802r-eng.php

Retailers: If you are a retailer of a recalled product you have a duty to notify your customers of a recall. If you can, email your clients or include the recall information in your next marketing communication to your clients. Post any Recall Poster at your stores and contact the manufacturer to determine how you will handle any recalls.

For more information on this see:

For Retailers

Recalls Call for Retailer Action

A recall leads to lawsuits because injuries are connected to the product being recalled thus a lawsuit. Plaintiff’s hope the three can be connected

Combination of a Products Liability statute, an Expert Witness Report that was just not direct enough and odd facts holds a retailer liable as manufacture for product defect.

Product Liability takes a different turn. You must pay attention, just not rely on the CPSC.

Retailer has no duty to fit or instruct on fitting bicycle helmet

Summary Judgment granted for bicycle manufacturer and retailer on a breach of warranty and product liability claim.

For Manufacturers

The legal relationship created between manufactures and US consumers

A recall leads to lawsuits because injuries are connected to the product being recalled thus a lawsuit. Plaintiff’s hope the three can be connected

Combination of a Products Liability statute, an Expert Witness Report that was just not direct enough and odd facts holds a retailer liable as manufacture for product defect.

 

 

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UIAA Ice Climbing News

Ice Climbing News

 

Experience the thrill of the Speed Duel during UIAA Ice Climbing World Championship (Speed) in Kirov, Russia

3 March 2015, BERN – Switzerland: The thrill of the Speed duel comes alive this weekend (6-8 March 2015) during the UIAA Ice Climbing World Speed Championship in Kirov, Russia presented by The North Face Korea.

Once every two years athletes on the UIAA Ice Climbing World Tour compete for the title of “World Champion” and the opportunity to called the fastest ice climber in the world is a coveted title for athletes who gather in Kirov, Russia for the UIAA Ice Climbing World Speed Championship.

The Speed Wall in Kirov, Russia

“Watching a Speed duel, and especially in Kirov, Russia, is something that is unique, spectacular and worth experiencing,” said UIAA Ice Climbing President Urs Stoecker. “This is one event not to be missed.”

The sight of ice climbers powering their way up an ice wall, ice flying, with picks and crampons will be available through live streaming at the www.iceclimbingworldcup.org

Located about 1,000 kilometers northeast of Moscow, Kirov is considered the home of competitive ice climbing in Russia and boasts a spectacular Speed wall situated against the backdrop of a ski jump.

The UIAA World Speed Championship competition in Kirov, Russia will see the likes of Vladimir Kartashev and Ekaterina Feoktistova of Russia compete with athletes from around the world such as Kendra Stritch from the U.S.A., Yann Gerome of France and Samuel Clavien from Switzerland.

Kartashev, Feoktistova, Gerome and Stritch will be joined by competitors from countries such as Ukraine, Switzerland, Mongolia, South Korea, Hong Kong, United Kingdom, Canada and Azerbaijan in Russia.

UIAA Speed demons (Photo: David Schweizer for UIAA)

Earlier this year in February, Rabenstein (Italy) held 2015 World Championships in Lead (difficulty). That competition was one by WoonSeon Shin of Korea and Maxim Tomilov of Russia.

Please click here for the full event schedule

Please click here for the local organizer website

Please email iceclimbingfor more information

About the UIAA

The UIAA – International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation was founded in 1932 and has a global presence on five continents with 82 member associations in 63 countries representing more than 3 million people. The organization’s mission is to promote the growth and protection of climbing and mountaineering worldwide, advance safe and ethical climbing and mountaineering practices and promote responsible access, culture and environmental protection in mountains. The organization operates through the work of its commissions that make recommendations, set policy and advocate on behalf of the climbing and mountaineering community. The UIAA is recognized by the International Olympic Committee for climbing and mountaineering.


Ouray Ice Climbing Festival Schedule is UP. The biggest Ice Climbing event in North America

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2015 Ouray Ice Fest ClinicsThe 2015 Ouray Ice Festival Clinics Schedule has been posted on our website. In association with the Ouray Ice Park Inc., we’re proud to offer the most unique ice climbing clinic schedule in North America. This year is one of the best line-ups ever with clinics by La Sportiva, Outdoor Research, Mammut, Bluewater Ropes, Petzl, Black Diamond, and many, many more.

Each clinic is taught by professional athletes and guides such as Ines Papert, Conrad Anker, Steve House, Carlos Buhler, Vince Anderson, Will Gadd, Dawn Glanc, Margot Talbot – and that’s just a few!!

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Sales for the clinics and seminars will begin on Thursday November 13th, 2014 @ 0800 MST – so make sure to “window shop” and decide which clinics you’d like to participate in.

Come and join us for North America’s iconic and 20th Annual Ouray Ice Climbing FestivalJanuary 8 – 11, 2015. See you there!!

www.mtnguide.net
info

Ouray Ice Festival Clinics / Seminars 2eab28cb-5a44-4781-8cdd-c203d45f7170.png2015 Clinic Schedule

We have organized a ton of unique and informative ice climbing clinics to appeal to first-time ice climbers and experienced veterans alike. Climbers of all ability levels and backgrounds can choose from over 100 half-day clinics and full-day seminars – including backcountry ice and ski options. Don’t miss your opportunity to learn from the best!

New this year is the opportunity to climb with our guides from San Juan Mountain Guides on Thursday before the festival begins at a discounted rate. Check out the “Seminars” tab on the clinic schedule page.

Ice Fest Clinic Schedule
Clinic Sales begin on November 13, 2014 @ 0800 MST
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San Juan Ice Conditions Update

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We’ve had plenty of early season moisture to feed waterfalls, drips, and seeps to form great early season ice conditions. With a huge dip of cold weather on the way, backcountry ice will be in climbing condition very soon. Ice climbing in November and December offers some of the best ice climbing of the year.

Early Season Ice Climbing Course
Private/Custom Ice Guiding
Ouray/San Juan Ice Conditions Page

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2014 UIAA Ice Climbing World Cup set to begin

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News Release2014 UIAA Ice Climbing World Cup set to beginLive streaming available on new competition website

9 January 2014, BERN, Switzerland: The UIAA – International Mountaineering and Climbing Federation is pleased to provide live streaming of the 2014 UIAA Ice Climbing World Cup at http:/www.iceclimbingworldcup.org which begins in Cheongsong, Korea on Saturday, 11 January 2014.

Cheongsong, Korea (UTC/GMT +9 hours) is the first stop of the annual competition circuit. The competition then moves on to Busteni (Romania), Saas Fee (Switzerland), Champagny-en-Vanoise (France), Rabenstein (Italy) and Ufa (Russia).

Please check the event calendar for Cheongsong to find the competition schedule when live streaming will be available.

You can also follow the competition on Twitter or Facebook.

There are two types of events which are part of the UIAA Ice Climbing World Cup:

Speed: competitors climb up an artificial ice wall in the fastest time.
Lead: competitors are judged on their ability to climb a difficult route in the best time.

There are two types of winners; those who win each phase of the competition and overall winners based on the total points accumulated throughout the competition.

About Goldwin Korea

The UIAA Ice Climbing World Cup is sponsored by Goldwin Korea which is the official license partner of The North Face in Korea. Goldwin Korea launched The North Face in Korea in 1997 and The North Face is now the leading outdoor brand in Korea.

The agreement involves a long-term commitment by the UIAA and Goldwin Korea to champion and develop the sport of competitive ice climbing.

About the UIAA

The UIAA was founded in 1932 and has 80 member associations in 50 countries representing about 2.9 million people. The organization’s mission is to promote the growth and protection of mountaineering and climbing worldwide, advance safe and ethical mountain practices and promote responsible access, culture and environmental protection.

The organization operates through the work of its commissions which make recommendations, set policy and advocate on behalf of the mountaineering community. The UIAA is recognized by the International Olympic Committee for mountaineering and natural surface climbing.

Ice climbing

Ice climbing (Photo credit: Wikipedia)


Ice is Forming in Colorado and the Ouray Ice Fest is coming together

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2014 Ouray Ice Fest Clinics

The 2014 Ouray Ice Festival Clinics Schedule has been posted on our website. In association with the Ouray Ice Park Inc., we’re proud to offer the most unique ice climbing clinic schedule in North America. This year is one of the best line-ups ever with clinics by La Sportiva, Outdoor Research, Mammut, Mountain Hardwear, Petzl, Black Diamond, and many, many more.

Each clinic is taught by professional athletes and guides such as Conrad Anker, Steve House, Carlos Buhler, Vince Anderson, Jen Olson, Dawn Glanc, Margot Talbot – and that’s just a few!!

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Sales for the clinics and seminars will begin on Thursday November 14th, 2013 – so make sure to “window shop” and decide which clinics you’d like to participate in.

Come and join us for North America’s iconic and 19th Annual Ouray Ice Climbing FestivalJanuary 9 – 12, 2014. See you there!!

Nate Disser & the SJMG Team
800.642.5389
www.mtnguide.net
info

Ouray Ice Festival Clinics / Seminars ice.fest.clinics.internal.jpg2014 Clinic Schedule

We have organized a ton of unique and informative ice climbing clinics to appeal to first-time ice climbers and experienced veterans alike. Climbers of all ability levels and backgrounds can choose from over 100 half-day clinics and full-day seminars – including backcountry ice and ski options. Don’t miss your opportunity to learn from the best!

Ice Fest Clinic Schedule
Clinic Sales begin on November 14, 2013 @ 0800 MST

San Juan Ice Conditions Update

ribbon2.jpgIce Climbs Are In!!

Due to ample fall moisture in the form of rain and high country snow, many of the classic ice lines of the area are already climbable or forming up better than we have seen in almost a decade! This is the year to climb classics like The Ribbon, Bird Brain Boulevard, Ames Ice Hose, Bridalveil Falls and more! Ice climbing in November and December is some of the best climbing of the year.

Early Season Ice Climbing Course
Private/Custom Ice Guiding
Trip Report from a climb of The Ribbon Ice Route
Ouray/San Juan Ice Conditions Page

SJMG BLOG REQUEST INFO

San Juan Mountain Guides, LLC
725 Main St. Ouray, CO 81427 or 1111 Camino del Rio, Durango, CO 81301

800.642.5389
www.mtnguide.net
info

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